We left the United States 17 days after the
World Trade Center tragedy.While en
route to Africa, we saw broadcasts in
Minneapolis, Detroit, Amsterdam, Nairobi, and
Entebbe of the crumbling twin towers, grieving citizens,
and concerned officials. The story remained
with us. In a sense, we were never far from home.
And yet, landing in Kampala, Uganda, we were on
the other side of the world.
The Jesuits graciously welcomed us at their
Xavier House residence, providing a base camp
from which to do our ministry: follow up on the
computer labs we had installed for the Computers
for Africa project.We rested and prepared for two
days, then were off to Kalungu Girl’s Training
Center to revisit the site of the first lab we installed
in June 2000.
Engineer Tim, carrying his little black bag filled
with light-up gizmos, hanks of wire, hubs, cables,
switches, and tools, looked like Dr. Techno walking
beneath a dense canopy of gray briar and red blossoms
that covered the walkway leading to the computer
lab. The lab was already providing income for
the school, jobs for its graduates, and training for
people in the village. This trip he teamed up with
Herbert Busiku, the school’s new computer teacher,
to upgrade and network the lab.
Tim’s mission was to work on the machines;
mine was to listen to the people who used them and
do other tasks to assist the effort. I hummed music
and carried a notepad in my heart. By day, a gazillian
goldfinches convened, debated and sang. At
night the frogs took over, croaking up a hammering,
deep-throated swell that almost drowned out the songs of students at choir practice.
Yet there was a pervasive disharmony
amid this beauty. The women on staff at
the school enjoyed talking. Sometimes we
met singly, outside in the shade – sometimes
indoors in a group. They told me
stories about their lives, stories of war,
sickness, poverty, and oppression.
“I am lucky.” said one. “I have a teaching
job. My salary ($60 U.S. a month)
supports my baby, my mom, and my
nieces and nephews.”
Another told of hiding for her life. “It
was night, pitch dark. I was covered in
mosquitoes and couldn’t move, couldn’t
make a sound because the rebels were
only a few feet away. I was six years old
when the killing began.”
And another told of trying to make a
life for herself. “I don’t want to get married.
Love can die. Education lives on. I
am the only girl in the family to get an
education. Here girls are to make babies
and to do the work.”
Yet no one spoke to me without first expressing
concern for America, asking if we were OK and
offering condolences for what many called “that terrible
thing.”
When Headmistress Sr. Noelina and I made a
short trip off campus, I thought we were to meet
with a few leaders of UWESO - Uganda Women’s
Effort to Save Orphans.We arrived instead to find a
score of widowed grandmothers, about 150 orphans
packed into two trucks, and a few men. All had
gathered to tell us in speeches, poems, songs, and
drama about their struggle to survive and their
efforts to keep families together. I pocketed their
dream, a proposal for a new sewing center, and
promised to try and help find a sponsor. Then we
returned to Kalungu, carrying their expressions of
sorrow for America.
The official language of Uganda is English. All
over the country, smiling, animated children love to
spout, “Hello,Mazungu (white person)! How are
you?” and tell you, “I am fine!” The day after the
UWESO meeting, I saw a young girl walking slowly,
child in tow, up a road toward the coffee bean patch
where I was taking pictures. She was uncustomarily
silent.
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| Fr. Jim Strzok, SJ, helps unload
computers in Uganda. |
“Hello,” I said from the bushes, “How are you?”
She paused, focused on her feet and whispered,
“I am not fine.” I walked over and stood silently
beside her. She turned away.
“Why are you not fine?” I asked.
“My mother died today,” she replied.
I stood in stunned silence before offering my
sympathy. Her father, too, had died several years
ago. She was one more orphan. The girl waited until
I returned from the school compound with a 10,000
shillings bill, equal to about $6. She dropped to her
knees to kiss my feet.
Each day in Kalungu, Tim and Herbert kept a
frenetic pace, cramming every possible bit of shared
knowledge into their limited time. On the last day,
they were in high spirits. Everything had gone well.
The Sacred Heart sisters, too, were pleased, all
smiles as they gathered to see us off.
Returning to our home base at Xavier House,
some three hours and 80 miles of rutted roads away,
I tackled washing our laundry by hand. It was a
blue-soap and bare-knuckle affair to rid our clothes
of Uganda’s red dust. Chores done, curiosity finally
coaxed me beyond the gates of Xavier House.
Little children scurried from everywhere to
stare, to wave, to run up and greet the out-of-town
white lady rounding the block.When I stopped for
a moment to get my bearings, a concerned woman
approached.
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| Students gather around a computer screen in new lab.
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“How long,” she asked, “will the war in America
last? How long will America be fighting? Will many
more people get hurt?” It took me a moment to
catch on. She'd read the three-inch headlines in the
morning paper: “America Declares War.” I believeshe thought there was hand-to-hand combat in U.S.
streets. Her image of war was based on her firsthand
experiences.
While Tim worked on Jesuit computers, Fr. Tony
Wach, SJ, Xavier House superior, played several
videos for me. The first described the plight of
African widows and how all can be taken from a
woman when her husband dies, even her children.
That video angered me; the next one made me cry.
It detailed the atrocities and abductions, over the
past few years, of thousands of children in Gulu.
Gulu is in northern Uganda where ebola has
claimed so many lives, where, Fr. Tony tells me later,
a single diocese has 400,000 displaced persons.
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Ruth and Tim Leacock set up a newly refurbished computer for the St. Kizito High School in Mityana, Uganda.
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We made two more stops before leaving Uganda.
One was to set up a seven-computer lab at a
Catholic high school. The other was to assess how
we might help set up a lab at a state-run girls
school. Then it was off to Tanzania before returning
home.
The America of our return was still in grief, now
clothed in her colors of red, white and blue. A
neighbor hurried over to welcome us home and
update us on the new terrorism: the anthrax scare.
“Four people have already died!” he said.
My heart sank. Each day 6,000 people die from
AIDS in Africa.
It was all so unsettling, so crazy, so backward.
Everywhere we went in Africa desperately poor people
asked about America. They had little food, contaminated
water, mud housing, and no jobs. There
was no medicine for the dying, and minimal if any
education for the children.
Generations bore the wounds of violence. And
they asked, “How is America? How is America
doing?” I would tell them “America was hurt badly,
but she is getting better.” I believed America would
recover. I wondered what power on Earth it would
take for them to “get better” too.
I feel the grief and sadness of Sept. 11. It is, however,
submerged in the deeper reality of a very real,
terribly wounded world. I pray God will heal
America’s heart. I pray she will mend and turn her
energy outward, graced by God with a broader,
more empathic understanding of all people who
suffer.
God bless America. And God bless the world.